Installation on concrete slab

Installation on subfloor grade plywood

In-Floor radiant heating system

Materials List

Uniclic Installation Instructions

Installation on concrete slab: 
USFloors cork flooring can be installed over concrete that is above grade, on grade or below grade. Concrete slabs are required to be sound, smooth and level. Tolerance of level must be within 1/8 inch vertically for every 10 feet horizontally. Check concrete slab for moisture with calcium chloride moisture test. Moisture content cannot be more than 3 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. in a 24-hour period. Fill any low spots with a concrete based leveler scrape any high spots. Before installing USFloors cork flooring, cover concrete floor with six mil polyethylene sheets, overlapping seams 8 inches and taping each piece together. The sheet should be from wall to wall and run up the wall 3 inches. The flooring is ready to be installed.

Installation on subfloor grade plywood: 
Subfloor must be clean and level. Fill any low spots with an appropriate filler and sand any high spots level. Tolerance of lever must be within 1/8 inch vertically for every 10 feet horizontally. Subfloor must not exceed 14% moisture content (check using electrical resistance method). Check basements and crawl spaces to be sure they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage to planks caused by moisture. For buildings with crawl spaces, USFloors recommends the use of a 6-mil polyethylene sheeting as ground cover over the crawl space earth.
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In-Floor radiant heating system: 
With radiant heat, the heat source is directly beneath the flooring so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. To ensure this limit, a surface temperature sensor installed as close as possible to the radiant heating source piping should be used. 


Materials to be provided by the Installer
Table saw and measuring tools
Rubber mallet
Floor pull bar (for the last row)
½ inch spacers (for the first row)
6-mil polyethylene sheeting
Cleaning supplies
Caulk
Trim

Uniclic Installation Instructions

General
Uniclic is a revolutionary system for installing cork flooring without glue. Uniclic uses an ingenious form of tongue and groove to 'click' the planks together. The Uniclic system enables you to work 50% faster than similar glued flooring and because there is no glue, Uniclic is must easier and cleaner to work with. 

Start installing the floor in one corner, preferably parallel to the longest wall and following the direction the light falls. It is equally possible to work from left to right or right to left. Always insert the tongue (upper) into the groove (lower), not the other way around. 

1. String Line: Choose the longest wall that will be parallel to the plank floor. Tap a nail part way into the old floor ½ inch from the wall at each end of the room. String a line between the nails ¾ inch above the floor level. Use this string as a guide-line for the first row of planks. The ½" space from the wall allows room for the floor to expand. Shuffle the cork flooring with all boxes to acquire a good mix. Mixing planks for various cartons will ensure a natural color and pattern variation. 

2. First Row: Facing the guide-line, place the first plank at the left-hand end, tongue side facing the wall, starting ½" off the wall. It is necessary to remove the tongue from all planks lining the starting wall. Use ½" spacers at the end and along the wall (2 per plank) while keeping the planks aligned with the string. Spacers keep planks from shifting when subsequent rows are added. Place the special tapping block flat on the floor, tap on the block gently until the ends of the two planks are firmly joined, with the joint completely closed up. Continue this process until you reach the end wall. Cut the last plank to fit allowing for a ½" perimeter expansion space on all sides. Important! Do not attempt to knock the Uniclic joint in with only one hit, use small taps opposed to one heavy hit. Once the two planks have 'clicked' together, DO NOT tap them again as this can cause the joint to be too tight and result in peaking.

3. Next Rows: If the cut-off piece from the previous row is more than 10" long it can be used to start the next row so long as end-joints between adjacent rows are always staggered by at least 10". Firmly holding row 1 in place (a weight such as a full pack of planks may be helpful):

a. Position the long side of the plank to be installed at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the plank already installed. Move the plank to be fitted slightly up and down at the same time as exerting pressure towards the joint. The planks will then click in place.

b. With the special tapping block and rubber mallet, use a number of small taps on the short edge of the new plank to bring the new and existing planks together. 

c. In some cases, planks cannot be rotated into one another, for example under a doorframe. In cases such as this, planks can be fitted horizontally. For the long edge, tap planks together gradually. Begin tapping lightly at the corner of a plank until the joint is made, then repeat the process every 12" until the entire long edge of the plank has clicked in with the other. In order to cut around pipes, use a drill bit with a diameter similar to the diameter of the pipe + ½" for expansion.

4. Last Row: Unusually the last row will require all planks be cut lengthwise. Measure each plank at several places along the length to ensure a proper fit. Remember to allow a ½" expansion space along the wall side. Use a floor pull bar and mallet to click together the long side of the planks. The short edge can be joined using the tapping block. 

5. Finish: After installing your floor, you can immediately walk on it. This is a major benefit of the Uniclic system. Remove all spacer blocks. Fix the skirting board over the extended polyethylene sheeting (if sheeting was used). Never attach skirting board to the floor itself, but allow space for the floor to expand and contract beneath the skirting board. In order to fill in the expansion gap around pipes and any other areas not covered by trim, use a flexible caulk.

  

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